The magnificent shiny ivory domes stand out on the grey sky. The Sacré Coeur impressively dominates The chilly weather doesn’t seem to have discouraged people from coming. Street hawkers try to stop the by-passers, tourists armed with cameras bump into each other while trying to get the best shot, cuddling lovers sit on the steps as in a Doisneau picture, bohemian looking teens juggle with clubs... At the top of the stairs, his back to the basilica, Damien is drawing. From where he is sitting, the whole town stretches out at his feet. “I come here almost everyday. But not for the basilica, he confesses, for the view. The day I can draw all these roofs, streets and monuments properly, I’ll consider myself a real painter.” Like Damien, a couple of Russian tourists admits that the unique panorama brought them here. “It’s a must-see, Ivan exclaims, Montmartre is famous all around the world, and there is no better place to catch the city in one glance. The basilica? Yes, the facade is quite nice, maybe we’ll have a look inside, since we’re here...” “I found it a bit disappointing, too modern for my taste”, interrupts a
But not all tourists show this lack of enthusiasm towards the Sacre Coeur. And indeed it would be a shame not to enter the Romano-Byzantine style building, which has once been criticised by its opponents for resembling a mosque or a Russian church.
In the middle of the copper-green statues of Joan of Arc and
This story is written on marble stones on the walk-around path circling the nave, in-between several small chapels dedicated to the Virgin Mary or Denis and Ignatius Loyola, the Saints who gave its name to
Followed by a Black man with a trolley, Sister Camille, in a chasuble, discreetly collects the candles money from the boxes. “This basilica was built thanks to the public, she explains in a whisper.10 million people, believers or not, gave 46 million francs for its construction. It can be unsettling to see so many tourists in a place of worship, but don’t forget this monument was built by laymen. Beside, the survival of the basilica still depends today on people’s generosity. I am one of the Benedictine sisters from the nearby convent working here for free. But our work could hardly suffice. See, the magnificent central fresco of the Christ has been recently cleaned, as well as the stained-glasses. We try to maintain a balance between worshippers and tourists.” But when asked about the three jackpot-looking machines selling medals of the Sacré Coeur by the entrance, her embarrassed smile is quite telling. “The convent has not be consulted on those...” .
Nonetheless, the basilica is a very active church, with at least three masses a day. Despite the tourists, its impressive architecture and the silent worshipers call for respect and give a feeling of a place spiritually inhabited. The ambivalence between modernity and tradition is reflected on the stained-glasses, which graphics have something of a comic drawing, or the old wooden confessionals, abandoned for a bigger Perspex one. Nearby, a wrinkled woman, wrapped in a shawl, is patiently waiting. She starts as two tourists noisily enter the basilica, soon harshly hushed by two guards. Witnessing the scene, a middle-aged Black man shakes his head in disapproval as he leaves the main alley where he has been praying below the monumental figure of a radiant Christ, his golden heart surrounded by flames. A last genuflexion, and he is out. Putting his checked cap on, Leonard confesses : “It is sometimes hard to pray with all these tourists around, some of them are very disrespectful and noisy. But if your are really involved in your praying, you soon become deaf to the surroundings, the connection with Jesus is all that matters”, he adds in a beam. He has come all the way from Champigny to pray here. “You can live your faith wherever you want, it is part of you, it doesn’t matter where you are. But I like coming to the Sacre-Coeur... especially because a lot of miracles happen here”, he mischievously confides.
One of them being that among the eight bombs which fell on the nearby streets in 1944, none touched the basilica. So that the white domes still dominates the Parisian landscape, a meeting place for tourists of all-around the world as well as for believers : the last spiritual and artistic adventure for









